Engagement Ring Styles Explained (A Guide to Bespoke Engagement Ring Design)

Engagement Ring Styles Explained (A Guide to Bespoke Engagement Ring Design)

Designing a bespoke engagement ring begins with understanding the different styles available, and how each one can be shaped into something personal. These styles are not fixed templates, but points of departure.

At Layla Kaisi Collection, each is approached as a foundation for design. Proportion, structure, and detail are carefully resolved, ensuring every ring is considered in its entirety and made to exist only for you.

Here, we explore a curated selection of engagement ring styles that leave the doors of LKC, and how they translate into bespoke pieces.

Solitaire Ring

The solitaire is the most recognisable engagement ring style, defined by a single stone as the focal point of the design. Its strength lies in restraint, where every proportion around the stone determines the overall balance of the piece.

At Layla Kaisi Collection, the solitaire is reinterpreted through bespoke design. The height of the setting, band proportion, claw structure, and stone positioning are all adjusted to suit individual taste. While there are many directions a solitaire can take, we most commonly see clients drawn to white diamonds in pear, round, oval, or marquise cuts, alongside emerald or sapphire used as a solitaire centre stone.

 

Orange-pink oval cut solitaire engagement ring set in 18ct white gold.

East–West Setting

The east–west setting is defined by a simple but deliberate shift in orientation, where the stone is set horizontally along the band rather than in the traditional vertical position. This change alters the visual flow of the ring, creating a more elongated and contemporary silhouette while maintaining the familiarity of a classic solitaire form.

At Layla Kaisi Collection, this style is approached as a study in proportion rather than a simple rotation. The length of the stone, the width of the band, the accenting stones, and the exact positioning of the setting are carefully considered to ensure balance from every angle. Even subtle adjustments in spacing and height influence how the ring sits on the hand and how the stone is perceived in movement.

 

Bespoke engagement ring featuring a yello pear cut diamond, accented by white diamonds. Set in 18ct Yellow Gold.

Toi et Moi Ring

The toi et moi style brings two stones together within a single composition, defined by their relationship to one another. The design is built around contrast and harmony, where each stone holds its own presence while contributing to a shared form.

For LKC, the toi et moi is developed as a study in proportion between two distinct stones. Each piece begins with the relationship between shapes, rather than a fixed layout, with combinations often drawn from contrasting forms such as pear and emerald, round and marquise, or custom-cut stones designed specifically for the composition.

From there, the design is refined through orientation and placement. Stones may sit side by side, slightly offset, or angled to follow the natural line of the hand. This positioning determines how the two elements interact visually; whether they feel aligned, in dialogue, or intentionally in tension.

Spacing is equally critical. A tighter setting creates connection and cohesion, while increased distance introduces separation and contrast. Even subtle shifts in angle or height change the balance of the design and how each stone is read individually.

 

18ct yellow gold ring with a pear cut diamond pear cut sapphire Toi et Moi ring with small sapphires and diamonds surrounding the setting, on a light background.

Three-Stone Ring (Trilogy)

The three-stone ring is defined by composition, where each stone plays a specific role within a single, unified structure. Together, the three stones create balance through proportion, forming a design that feels layered without being complex.

LKC approaches this style with precision and restraint. Each element from stone selection, stone size, stone spacing, and alignment, is carefully considered so the composition feels balanced and in harmony. The emphasis is placed on how the stones relate to one another, rather than on ornamentation or excess detail.

 

Three stone ring design by Layla Kaisi Collection featuring two yellow oval cut diamonds and white emerald cut diamond. Set in 18ct white gold.

Sculptural / Organic Forms

Sculptural designs move away from traditional ring structures, focusing instead on form, flow, and spatial composition. These pieces are shaped through proportion, movement, and the relationship between metal, stone, and negative space.

Each LKC design is developed without fixed templates, allowing the form to evolve around the stone rather than conforming to a set structure. This often includes open band designs, where the ring is interrupted or reimagined to create a sense of movement and space around the hand.

Stone selection and placement are also central to this approach. Alongside classic cuts, elongated or asymmetric stones such as pear, marquise, and emerald are often used for how their geometry interacts with the overall form. Stones may be set off-centre or positioned within open structures to create balance and tension.

The result is a sculptural composition where form and stone are resolved together, creating a piece that feels individual and unrepeatable.

 

REVERENCE | Silhouette Featuring pear cut diamond set on an open band with a trail of round diamonds.

Cluster Ring

A cluster ring is a composition of multiple stones arranged within a single setting, traditionally designed to create a unified surface of brilliance or a central focal point through repetition. In its conventional form, it relies on symmetry and uniform spacing to build visual density.

At LKC, the cluster is reinterpreted as a structured composition rather than a decorative grouping. The design begins with how multiple stones will occupy space as an architectural whole, rather than being placed to simply fill a surface.

Stone selection is intentional and varied, often combining differences in scale, cut, and geometry. These contrasts are used to avoid uniformity and instead create hierarchy and visual rhythm within the piece.

Placement is driven by asymmetry and directional flow. Each stone is positioned to guide movement across the design rather than converge into a single central point. Spacing is treated as an active design element, where tighter groupings build intensity and wider separations introduce pause and negative space.

 

Bespoke engagement ring featuring a round white diamond and sapphire with accent diamonds. Set in 18ct yellow gold.

Setting Styles and How They Shape a Design

Beyond the overall style of a ring, the setting determines how the stone is held, how it sits on the hand, and how the piece is experienced in its entirety. Settings are treated as an essential part of bespoke design, refined to complement both the stone and the overall structure of the ring.

The bezel setting is one of the most considered approaches. Here, the stone is fully framed by a continuous rim of metal, integrating it into the design rather than placing it above it. This creates a smooth, uninterrupted silhouette with a distinct architectural quality. Depending on proportion and edge detail, the bezel can feel soft and minimal or more defined and sculptural.

Alongside this, more traditional prong or claw settings allow the stone to remain visually open, maximising light and prominence. The number, thickness, and shape of the claws subtly influence the character of the ring, shifting it between delicate refinement and stronger structural presence.

These setting choices are not secondary details. They are central to how a bespoke engagement ring is designed, shaping both its visual balance and how it sits within everyday wear.

Designing Your Bespoke Engagement Ring

Choosing a style is not a final decision; it is the starting point of the design process. A bespoke engagement ring is developed through a series of considered refinements, where stone, proportion, setting, and form are merged together rather than selected independently. Each decision is deliberate, shaping a piece that is structurally and visually cohesive.

This is not about selecting from what already exists. It is about creating a ring that is precisely aligned to the individual it is made for, without compromise in form, proportion, or intent.

To begin, enquire with Layla Kaisi Collection to commission a bespoke engagement ring designed uniquely for you.

Image of Layla Kaisi Collection bespoke rings on a person in a white blazer for the Layla Kaisi Collection Journal

Layla Kaisi Collection

Layla Kaisi Collection is an ultra-luxury jewellery house crafting rare, one-of-a-kind pieces that exist beyond trends. Known for pushing the boundaries of design and sourcing some of the world’s most elusive gemstones, each creation is a masterwork of storytelling and soul. Founded by designer Layla Kaisi, the brand is built on exclusivity, intention, and artistic rebellion—inviting clients into a private world where luxury is felt, not flaunted. From red carpets to private collections, LKC is for those who know true rarity when they see it.

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